Some days you just dont have a lot of time to make any major progress. Still, there are usually some small things you can do to help the project along. Last night was just such an occasion. I took a few minutes to trim the forward tips of the outer floor battens. Now they match the inner battens, which Id trimmed a while back. This will look much better than the squared ends once the bottom is planked.


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Tampilkan postingan dengan label the. Tampilkan semua postingan
Tampilkan postingan dengan label the. Tampilkan semua postingan
Jumat, 27 Januari 2017
Trimming the sheers
Its a pivotal moment when you get the boat hull flipped over. All at once, you can visualize the completed boat; picture yourself and your family in it, riding across the lake or cruising upriver... It all just seems so close.
The reality, though, is that there is still much work to do. Much.
For me, the wondrous gazing at my righted Utility hull quickly gave way to recognizing the abundance of tasks yet to be done. Theyre so plentiful, I could really just start anywhere.
So, I started on the sheers.
Out came the planer, quickly knocking down the mounds of cured epoxy, and cutting into the laminations of the sheer to level them somewhat. While a hand planer can be effective on the edges of plywood, you have to be very careful, because you can quickly cause unexpected damage. The planer is fine for roughing through the excess material, but the sander is much safer from that point on.
I found that the vertical joints in the plywood, such as where the sides meet at the bow or at the transom, were particularly susceptible to unwanted damage from the planer. Fortunately, no harm was done that wasnt going to get cut away, anyway.
Its like fairing, all over again. But this time, theres a boat to look at.
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The reality, though, is that there is still much work to do. Much.
For me, the wondrous gazing at my righted Utility hull quickly gave way to recognizing the abundance of tasks yet to be done. Theyre so plentiful, I could really just start anywhere.
So, I started on the sheers.
Out came the planer, quickly knocking down the mounds of cured epoxy, and cutting into the laminations of the sheer to level them somewhat. While a hand planer can be effective on the edges of plywood, you have to be very careful, because you can quickly cause unexpected damage. The planer is fine for roughing through the excess material, but the sander is much safer from that point on.
I found that the vertical joints in the plywood, such as where the sides meet at the bow or at the transom, were particularly susceptible to unwanted damage from the planer. Fortunately, no harm was done that wasnt going to get cut away, anyway.
Its like fairing, all over again. But this time, theres a boat to look at.
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| The untrimmed sheer at the transom shows just how much work there is to do. This is the starboard side. |
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| The untrimmed sheer at the transom shows just how much work there is to do. This is the starboard side. |
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| On the port side of the transom, things are looking much better. |
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| Mounds of cured epoxy on the untrimmed starboard sheer. |
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| Up forward, the sheer will have to be faired to the crown of the forward frame so that the deck will fit properly. Here, you can see that the laminated sheer has been planed just a little. |
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| The big glob of epoxy needs to be cleaned off of the starboard sheer, where it meets frame #1. |
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| Looking better on the port side. |
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| Here, Ive trimmed off the screw heads, where they were driven through the backing block of the port-side butt joint in the planking. They still need to be sanded flush. |
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| The screws are still untouched on the starboard side. |
Label:
boat making,
sheers,
the,
trimming
Senin, 23 Januari 2017
4th of July in the boat shop
It was a busy 4th of July weekend in my cramped little boat shop. I set out my U.S. Yacht Ensign flag, and got right to work.
After a week of shaping that mahogany shim on the port chine, I finally got it to a point I was satisfied with. So, without any more delays, I epoxied on the forward bottom planking.
This time around, I used System Three Silvertip epoxy, thickened with the remainder of my collected mahogany sawdust. I learned a valuable lesson about using thickened epoxy versus Gel Magic.
Although I used the remainder of my mahogany sawdust, the mixture was still not as viscous as Gel Magic. However, it sure seemed thick enough to do the job. In the end, I used perhaps 2/3 as much epoxy for the port side as Id used of GelMagic when I did the starboard. Not only that, but it was easier and faster to apply. This saved me time, stress, and money.... some pretty good selling points.
I still had plenty... PLENTY... of squeeze-out to fill the gaps I was concerned about, too.
I also used 4 spacing on the screws for this side, compared to the 3 spacing I used on the starboard side. The planking contact seemed just as good, and I used 3/4 as many screws (73 this time, compared to 97 before). Again, this saved me time, stress and money.
And yes, this time I did remember to scrape away excess epoxy from the areas where Ill need to fit the butt blocks.
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After a week of shaping that mahogany shim on the port chine, I finally got it to a point I was satisfied with. So, without any more delays, I epoxied on the forward bottom planking.
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| The shim on the port chine |
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| 3/4 of the bottom planking is now attached. |
Although I used the remainder of my mahogany sawdust, the mixture was still not as viscous as Gel Magic. However, it sure seemed thick enough to do the job. In the end, I used perhaps 2/3 as much epoxy for the port side as Id used of GelMagic when I did the starboard. Not only that, but it was easier and faster to apply. This saved me time, stress, and money.... some pretty good selling points.
I still had plenty... PLENTY... of squeeze-out to fill the gaps I was concerned about, too.
I also used 4 spacing on the screws for this side, compared to the 3 spacing I used on the starboard side. The planking contact seemed just as good, and I used 3/4 as many screws (73 this time, compared to 97 before). Again, this saved me time, stress and money.
And yes, this time I did remember to scrape away excess epoxy from the areas where Ill need to fit the butt blocks.
Sabtu, 21 Januari 2017
A kitchen scale saves the day
I took another boatbuilders suggestion, and bought a kitchen scale to use in measuring my epoxy mixtures. This simple device I bought for about $30 at K-Mart has made a huge difference. I can now precisely measure any given amount of epoxy, with no guesswork. Its such an obviously superior method that I wish Id done it this way all along.
Not surprisingly, the last 2 layers of epoxy went on easily, with no problems whatsoever in curing time. With the stem & related parts now encapsulated, I could move on to finishing the side planking.
On February 15, the 1-year anniversary of my heart surgery, I got the forward starboard planking attached.
Again, the kitchen scale was an indispensable part of the process, and really saved my tail at one point. With weight-based measuring, the Silvertip Gel Magic is mixed at a 1:0.41 ratio, (rather than the 2:1 ratio by volume.) I had mixed a little over 150 mL, because I had a considerable amount of area to cover: both surfaces of the butt joint, the forward 7 feet of chine and sheer, the side of frame #2, the upper part of the stem, and all the same mating surfaces on the planking itself.
I ran into trouble about 3/4 of the way through this batch of epoxy. Enough time had elapsed that the mixture had become so viscous that it was unworkable. At that point, I had coated everything on the boat framing, and had only just coated the mating surface for the butt block on the planking. I had all the rest of the planking left to go.
Luckily, I had 1 extra mixing cup and 1 extra chip brush on hand. Going quickly back to the kitchen scale, I mixed a small batch of approximately 75 mL, allowing me to finish the job. The epoxy cured solidly by the end of the afternoon.
The next day, I faired off the front of the starboard planking at the stem, and started fitting the port side.


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Not surprisingly, the last 2 layers of epoxy went on easily, with no problems whatsoever in curing time. With the stem & related parts now encapsulated, I could move on to finishing the side planking.
On February 15, the 1-year anniversary of my heart surgery, I got the forward starboard planking attached.
Again, the kitchen scale was an indispensable part of the process, and really saved my tail at one point. With weight-based measuring, the Silvertip Gel Magic is mixed at a 1:0.41 ratio, (rather than the 2:1 ratio by volume.) I had mixed a little over 150 mL, because I had a considerable amount of area to cover: both surfaces of the butt joint, the forward 7 feet of chine and sheer, the side of frame #2, the upper part of the stem, and all the same mating surfaces on the planking itself.
I ran into trouble about 3/4 of the way through this batch of epoxy. Enough time had elapsed that the mixture had become so viscous that it was unworkable. At that point, I had coated everything on the boat framing, and had only just coated the mating surface for the butt block on the planking. I had all the rest of the planking left to go.
Luckily, I had 1 extra mixing cup and 1 extra chip brush on hand. Going quickly back to the kitchen scale, I mixed a small batch of approximately 75 mL, allowing me to finish the job. The epoxy cured solidly by the end of the afternoon.
The next day, I faired off the front of the starboard planking at the stem, and started fitting the port side.


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| Starboard side planking, finally attached! |
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| Now to fit the port side. |
Kamis, 19 Januari 2017
The Utility Rough fitting the 1st forward panel
The aft port side panel is now attached. I followed exactly the same procedure as for the aft starboard panel, except this time I did remember the rag.
I decided to go ahead and rough-fit the forward panel on the starboard side. First, I marked and cut one of the Meranti panels in half lengthwise, giving me two 2 x 8 panels to use for the side planking.
Using one of these panels, I began to fit it to the starboard side. I had to go through several cycles of "Clamp, Mark, Remove, Cut, Repeat" in order to cut away extraneous material from the front of the panel. This was due to the low height of the construction form. For several attempts I could not bend the plywood all the way around to the bow without the floor getting in the way.
Finally, I got it roughly fit & it is now temporarily clamped into position. Once Im satisfied with the fitting, I will check the starboard panel against the port side. If everything looks like a suitable fit, I will then use this panel as a template to mark and cut the second panel from the other 2 x 8 piece of plywood.
So far, Im pretty pleased with the Meranti. It is a nicer-looking wood than I expected, and it seems to bend much easier than the Douglas Fir plywood.

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I decided to go ahead and rough-fit the forward panel on the starboard side. First, I marked and cut one of the Meranti panels in half lengthwise, giving me two 2 x 8 panels to use for the side planking.
Using one of these panels, I began to fit it to the starboard side. I had to go through several cycles of "Clamp, Mark, Remove, Cut, Repeat" in order to cut away extraneous material from the front of the panel. This was due to the low height of the construction form. For several attempts I could not bend the plywood all the way around to the bow without the floor getting in the way.
Finally, I got it roughly fit & it is now temporarily clamped into position. Once Im satisfied with the fitting, I will check the starboard panel against the port side. If everything looks like a suitable fit, I will then use this panel as a template to mark and cut the second panel from the other 2 x 8 piece of plywood.
So far, Im pretty pleased with the Meranti. It is a nicer-looking wood than I expected, and it seems to bend much easier than the Douglas Fir plywood.
| Forward panel rough-fit & clamped into position on the starboard side. |
Sabtu, 14 Januari 2017
The Giant Sequoia and Some Random Thoughts on Trees and Wood
It is one thing to see wood at a lumber yard and it is quite another thing to see it in the form of a living tree. Unlike the stuff in the lumber yard which gives little evidence of where it came from, the living tree obviously speaks for itself. It is not a product but an individual being with a considerable amount of character that makes it distinct from others of its kind, especially when old.
The musings I am about to deliver on the nature of wood were prompted by a trip to Kings Canyon and Sequoia National Parks. The two parks are adjacent to each other, with Sequoia to the south and Kings Canyon to the north. The only way to approach these parks by car is from the Central Valley of California. Kings Canyon is adjacent to the city of Fresno and Sequoia is adjacent to the city of Visalia. Giant Sequoias can be found in both parks, although Sequoia National Park has more of them. Coming from the Central Valley which is flat and almost devoid of trees except for fruit trees in the orchards, it is hard to imagine that one is about to enter a mountainous zone where the huge sequoias live.
But on to some pictures. I would like to say off the start that it is impossible to convey the massiveness of these giant trees in photographs. The best one can do is show part of the tree with a human or two next to it for scale. But even then, the photograph cannot capture the sense of presence that these large trees convey. Nevertheless, here are some photographs.
This trunk of a Sequoia has been hollowed out by fire and decay and so it is possible to walk through and along the trunk.

And using a deer for scale.
And more humans for scale.
And a tree hugging human for scale.

Someone took a slice of a sequoia trunk and propped it up at an angle for the edification of the public. This slice represents roughly 2000 years of growth. Age is determined by counting the annual growth rings. The age of standing trees has to be estimated because there apparently is not any equipment that can remove sample cores of the requisite length, roughly 18 feet needed to count all the rings from the center of the tree to its edge.
This is a side view of that specimen.

And here is a closeup of the growth rings in that slice. The top of the picture is closer to the center of the tree where the older wood resides. The crack running horizontally through the picture is a fire scar. Moving downward toward the crack, the growth rings get ever closer together, an indication of ever diminishing growth. After the fire, there is an explosion of new growth that again diminishes over time. Apparently, fires burn the vegetable matter on the ground and release nutrients into the soil which spur new growth for a few decades until most of the nutrients are once again tied up in vegetable matter until the next fire comes along. Also, note the little circular impressions just above the crack. These are probably cores taken for carbon 14 dating and then plugged.
When botanists try to estimate the age of trees based on diameter, they look at slices like this one and try to get an average count of growth rings per inch since as this picture shows, ring density changes with every fire and also with annual precipitation.
There was no sign indicating what sort of wood these park benches were made out of, but I suspect that they were made of sequoia wood. Yes, they haven;t stopped logging sequoias. Not all of them are protected. Some of them are on private property and some of them are in national forests which are administered by the US Department of Agriculture which regards forests as cropland meant to be harvested. Not an editorial comment by the way. If we want to make stuff out of wood, we have to cut down trees. More on that at the end.
Here the park service has done a prescribed burn or someone dropped a cigarette. In any case, not much damage was done. For a long time, the park service used to suppress fires but found that periodic fires are better than monster fires fueled by debris on the ground that has accumulated for too long. Also, they found that sequoias will not reseed very well without fire. Fire turns vegetable matter into ash, releasing nutrients for the seedlings to grow. Fire also kills off young trees that would otherwise shade out the new seedlings. And fire also opens up the cones to release seeds. So now the park service does prescribed burns which do little damage but reduce the amount of fuel that could produce more dangerous fires.

This picture shows young sequoias coming up with the older fire scarred sequoias in the background. The ash and the light also allow ferns to grow.

Another view of the burned ground. Yes the ground burns since the top six inches are a compacted mass of needles and small branches.
Almost every old tree shows fire scars. As a matter of fact, I have never seen so many burned trees as I saw in Kings Canyon National Park. In the national forests, fire scarred trees are more rare since those are logged over on a more regular basis and fires tend to be suppressed because the trees are regarded as a crop, not a part of an ecosystem in which fire plays a beneficial role.
This is a side view of about eight inches of fibrous sequoia bark which lacks resin and therefore does not burn readily. Bark on sequoias can be up to two feet thick and this is what lets them grow old in an environment where fires occur naturally every seventy years or so.
Here the fire burned into the trunk of the tree but the segment at the left is still alive. Every yearn the bark spreads sideways to cover over scars and in time will cover them completely.
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The musings I am about to deliver on the nature of wood were prompted by a trip to Kings Canyon and Sequoia National Parks. The two parks are adjacent to each other, with Sequoia to the south and Kings Canyon to the north. The only way to approach these parks by car is from the Central Valley of California. Kings Canyon is adjacent to the city of Fresno and Sequoia is adjacent to the city of Visalia. Giant Sequoias can be found in both parks, although Sequoia National Park has more of them. Coming from the Central Valley which is flat and almost devoid of trees except for fruit trees in the orchards, it is hard to imagine that one is about to enter a mountainous zone where the huge sequoias live.
But on to some pictures. I would like to say off the start that it is impossible to convey the massiveness of these giant trees in photographs. The best one can do is show part of the tree with a human or two next to it for scale. But even then, the photograph cannot capture the sense of presence that these large trees convey. Nevertheless, here are some photographs.

Here is another sequoia that has fallen. Someone cut a hole through it that one can walk through. The hole by the way is about seven feet tall.

Here is a picture of the tree named the General Sherman. This is the worlds most massive living being. It is suspected that some of the trees cut down when logging first began were larger than this, but General Sherman is currently the largest individual. Its diameter at the base is in excess of 30 feet.

And here is the root ball of a recumbent sequoia, 30 feet from side to side.




Even the branches of these trees are huge. This one fell off a tree and the park service left it laying where it fell to give people an idea of their large size. The largest branches on the General Sherman are about 7 feet in diameter.
The sequoias are not the tallest trees in the world. That distinction goes to the coastal redwoods. Neither are they the oldest trees. That distinction goes to the bristlecone pines of the White Mountains, one valley to the east of the Sierra Nevada. But the sequoias are the most massive trees. Their trunks seem to be columns of almost constant diameter rising some 300 feet into the air and then seeming to end abruptly in the older specimens.



When botanists try to estimate the age of trees based on diameter, they look at slices like this one and try to get an average count of growth rings per inch since as this picture shows, ring density changes with every fire and also with annual precipitation.







Here is a segment of a branch. The heart wood is red and the sap wood is a lighter color. The heart wood of the tree is dead. The sapwood is the part of the tree that is still alive and growing and is where the tree adds more wood around the outside of the tree under the bark. For purposes of lumber we want heart wood because the sap wood decays more readily.
So I was curious what kind of wood sequoias are made out of or perhaps more properly, what kind of wood they grow. Right on the ground near this broken branch above I found a small piece that had broken off when that branch came down. It was red in color like that branch but on carving some off, I found that the red color was mostly a product of weathering and that the wood was a lighter color. It was also surprisingly light, similar to redwood but with a consistency that felt more like cedar. And then it occurred to me, why not? If you are going to grow large, why not build yourself out of light wood. Since most of the weight of the tree is in the trunk, the lighter it is, the larger you can build it. Sequoias and other conifers dont have huge spreading branches like oaks and so most of their strength is needed to resist the compression of the mass that piles up on top of the roots, mostly in the trunk. Hardwoods like oak on the other hand that put out large lateral spreading branches need stronger wood to resist bending forces and stronger wood is heavier. And so boat builders like conifers because they produce long straight trunks that can be cut into long straight boards.

So I was curious what kind of wood sequoias are made out of or perhaps more properly, what kind of wood they grow. Right on the ground near this broken branch above I found a small piece that had broken off when that branch came down. It was red in color like that branch but on carving some off, I found that the red color was mostly a product of weathering and that the wood was a lighter color. It was also surprisingly light, similar to redwood but with a consistency that felt more like cedar. And then it occurred to me, why not? If you are going to grow large, why not build yourself out of light wood. Since most of the weight of the tree is in the trunk, the lighter it is, the larger you can build it. Sequoias and other conifers dont have huge spreading branches like oaks and so most of their strength is needed to resist the compression of the mass that piles up on top of the roots, mostly in the trunk. Hardwoods like oak on the other hand that put out large lateral spreading branches need stronger wood to resist bending forces and stronger wood is heavier. And so boat builders like conifers because they produce long straight trunks that can be cut into long straight boards.

As a boat builder I use wood. And as a paddle maker I also use wood, especially wood from older trees since they are the ones that have the wood that is clear of knots. But to use wood without a knowledge of what happens to the forests where that wood is taken from is akin to buying a pork chop in a supermarket without knowing that one needs to kill pigs in order to make that pork chop.
The impact that the visit to the sequoias had on me was to see trees as individuals. Young trees a few decades old, especially in large quantities tend to be rather similar in appearance and lack distinction as individuals. Every tree seems to look like every other tree and so one can more readily regard them as a crop to be cut for use as lumber. Old trees however, tend to be distinctive, each one different from the next and since in the case of the sequoias they may have been around for perhaps two thousand years or more, one is forced to realize that cutting one of those trees for human use deprives the rest of the world from the presence of such old trees for another two thousand years. And so it seems that to cut such old trees is rather frivolous because the gain in lumber does not make up for the loss of the presence of the individual.
And yet, as a wood worker, I use wood. And since I make objects for other people, I want to give them a good product free of flaws and blemishes. I want to give them something that looks like wood is something that is extruded by a machine.
Perhaps I need to rethink my approach. If I do not want to participate in the cutting of old trees, then perhaps I need to figure out a way to make paddles from younger trees whose wood is not quite as perfect and blemish free as that of older trees. Stay tuned, I have some younger trees in mind that I will experiment with
Perhaps I need to rethink my approach. If I do not want to participate in the cutting of old trees, then perhaps I need to figure out a way to make paddles from younger trees whose wood is not quite as perfect and blemish free as that of older trees. Stay tuned, I have some younger trees in mind that I will experiment with
Jumat, 13 Januari 2017
Drawing out the next major Zip part
At first glance, the Zip has some rather odd frame designations.... Specifically, frame number "5-1/2".
It seems odd until you understand that the designations are logically based on boat design drawings. If you look at a cross-section drawing of the boat, there are several vertical lines that divide the hull into sub-sections. Each one of these vertical lines is called a "station." The numbering starts at zero (the transom), and ends at "F.P." (which stands for "Forward Perpendicular") at the foremost tip of the boat. In the case of the Zip, there are 8 stations including "F.P.", dividing the hull into 7 sub-sections of about 24-1/2" each. Frame # "5-1/2" is the frame placed between stations 5 and 6. It is located near the base of the stem.
Frame number 5-1/2 is a very important part. As the instructions indicate, the horizontal line formed by the floor member of frame # 5-1/2 is the plane from which the rest of the boat is set up. The instructions specifically state to take extra care to ensure that this part is accurately measured and constructed.
I just finished drawing this part, and I thought it would make a good blog post to illustrate how the Glen-L plans are copied to the wood.
First of all, you fold the carbon paper in half, so that the lines you trace through it are transferred to both the wood AND the back of the actual plans. Then you place the plans on the wood, and flatten them down securely. Push pins help for this.
Secondly, trace the plans for the part you want to build. As I mentioned in an earlier post, the centerline is THE crucial reference point for the boat. ALWAYS carefully draw the centerline. Make sure you extend your traced centerline beyond the needed dimensions of the part, for this reason:
Third, draw "sight holes" that are centered on the extended part of the traced centerline. I like to trace a small coin for this purpose. Use an exacto knife to cut your sight holes through the paper. Youll need these holes to align the plans after you flip them over.
Next, remove your push pins, plans, and carbon paper from the wood. The half-width of your part should be clearly visible.
Now, un-fold the carbon paper, and place it normally onto the wood where the second half of your part is to be drawn. Flip the plans over, and youll see the carbon-copy you made on the back of the plans. Carefully and accurately align the sight holes on the extended centerline that is traced onto the wood. Again flatten the paper down securely. Now youre ready to trace the second half.
Trace the carbon-copied lines onto the wood, just like you did the first side. When youre done, the full part will be drawn onto the wood.
Read More..
It seems odd until you understand that the designations are logically based on boat design drawings. If you look at a cross-section drawing of the boat, there are several vertical lines that divide the hull into sub-sections. Each one of these vertical lines is called a "station." The numbering starts at zero (the transom), and ends at "F.P." (which stands for "Forward Perpendicular") at the foremost tip of the boat. In the case of the Zip, there are 8 stations including "F.P.", dividing the hull into 7 sub-sections of about 24-1/2" each. Frame # "5-1/2" is the frame placed between stations 5 and 6. It is located near the base of the stem.
Frame number 5-1/2 is a very important part. As the instructions indicate, the horizontal line formed by the floor member of frame # 5-1/2 is the plane from which the rest of the boat is set up. The instructions specifically state to take extra care to ensure that this part is accurately measured and constructed.
I just finished drawing this part, and I thought it would make a good blog post to illustrate how the Glen-L plans are copied to the wood.
First of all, you fold the carbon paper in half, so that the lines you trace through it are transferred to both the wood AND the back of the actual plans. Then you place the plans on the wood, and flatten them down securely. Push pins help for this.
Secondly, trace the plans for the part you want to build. As I mentioned in an earlier post, the centerline is THE crucial reference point for the boat. ALWAYS carefully draw the centerline. Make sure you extend your traced centerline beyond the needed dimensions of the part, for this reason:
Third, draw "sight holes" that are centered on the extended part of the traced centerline. I like to trace a small coin for this purpose. Use an exacto knife to cut your sight holes through the paper. Youll need these holes to align the plans after you flip them over.
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| Here Ive traced out the floor timber, and have cut sight holes on the centerline. |
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| Half-width of the floor timber drawn onto 3/4" Douglas Fir marine plywood. |
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| Plans flipped & aligned. Ready to draw the second half of the floor timber. |
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| The full floor timber drawn onto the wood, waiting to be cut out. |
Kamis, 12 Januari 2017
Skin on Frame Housing the yurt gets a roof
Progress on the yurt continues. Much of the progress is imperceptible to anyone but myself but the progress is there. As it turns out, my initial suspicion that my first yurt would be a prototype for working the kinks out of the design turned out to be true. So let me share what Ive discovered so far.
I got the crown on the central ring of the yurt. I used some kayak rib stock, 1/4 inch by 3/4 inch white oak, socketed into the central ring and lashed together with tarred seine twine. The idea behind the crown is that it will be open under normal conditions but covered when it is raining or heat needs to be kept in the yurt.
Another discovery I made after the initial assembly of the yurt was that for the sake of getting a good setup it helped to trace a circle on the ground first before erecting the walls so that the walls would form a perfect circle. The perfect circle is essential so that all the rafters are the same distance from the central ring.
I also discovered that I had much more wood in the central ring than I needed and so it was too heavy and difficult to get into position when no help was available. What I did to remedy the weight problem was to cut some of the extra wood away from the center of the ring. It was way stronger than it needed to be.
The next step was to cut out some fabric for the roof. It took me some time to work out the trigonometry for the roof cover shape, but I did it. But I have learned to distrust theory and test with an actual life size cover. The other reason for getting the cover in place was that a series of rain storms were coming into the area and that would be a good test to see how the cover would stand up to the wind.
Heres an inside shot of the cover. The wind lifted it some and pushed it off center. Part of the problem is that the shape of the cover is like a pie with a wedge cut out of it and the edges adjacent to the missing wedge get pulled together and glued or sewn resulting in the desired pyramidal shape.
The cover is made out of some sort of vinyl covered fabric that is used for advertising banners. A friend gave me a bunch of these banners and I cut them up to fit the roof. The fabric has two problems. One is that it is very heavy and the other is that it is very stiff. The combination of weight and stiffness makes it very difficult to pull this stuff up on the roof. The weight also works against its portability.
On the plus side, the cover survived the storm and did not get blown off. I also discovered that once again, there is nothing like building something to test a design because until you do, its next to impossible to know what sort of problems the design has. So far, none of the design elements have been complete failures but lots of them can use improvement.
The list so far.
The wall battens are slightly too flexible. A bit more stiffness is advisable even at the expense of greater weight.
The skin is too stiff and heavy. Lighter weight is advisable.
Other commitments have kept me away from the yurt, but the learning continues. I will continue to post whenever there is progress or even when design ideas fail.
Read More..

Another discovery I made after the initial assembly of the yurt was that for the sake of getting a good setup it helped to trace a circle on the ground first before erecting the walls so that the walls would form a perfect circle. The perfect circle is essential so that all the rafters are the same distance from the central ring.
I also discovered that I had much more wood in the central ring than I needed and so it was too heavy and difficult to get into position when no help was available. What I did to remedy the weight problem was to cut some of the extra wood away from the center of the ring. It was way stronger than it needed to be.


The cover is made out of some sort of vinyl covered fabric that is used for advertising banners. A friend gave me a bunch of these banners and I cut them up to fit the roof. The fabric has two problems. One is that it is very heavy and the other is that it is very stiff. The combination of weight and stiffness makes it very difficult to pull this stuff up on the roof. The weight also works against its portability.
On the plus side, the cover survived the storm and did not get blown off. I also discovered that once again, there is nothing like building something to test a design because until you do, its next to impossible to know what sort of problems the design has. So far, none of the design elements have been complete failures but lots of them can use improvement.
The list so far.
The wall battens are slightly too flexible. A bit more stiffness is advisable even at the expense of greater weight.
The skin is too stiff and heavy. Lighter weight is advisable.
Other commitments have kept me away from the yurt, but the learning continues. I will continue to post whenever there is progress or even when design ideas fail.
Rabu, 11 Januari 2017
Halfway Round Alameda in a Kayak
A week or so back I paddled halfway round Alameda, an island off the coast of Oakland. People paddle all the way around the island occasionally, a trip of about 15 miles. A complete circumnavigation is something that can be done in about four of five hours and is a good way to kill a Saturday when you figure in drive time to get to the launch point and a stop at a restaurant afterwards.
I dont often do these kinds of paddles because they take up too much time. Usually I drive the half mile to the boat ramp closest to my house and put the boat in the water for a short, less than an hour paddle. The truth is that I dont much care for paddling any amount of distance. Distance paddling is quite frankly boring. It is like driving on the interstate across Nebraska. Lovely, but unvarying views. It can be done if one works oneself into a trance. I much prefer playing around in waves, a little surfing, some rolling and just enough paddling to get warm. Then back to the car. But the bay has no surf, just short waves and when there are waves, there is also an unpleasant amount of wind. Tribulation exceeds excitation.
The trick when trying to paddle somewhere solo is to get oneself locked into some sort of no-return situation where one has to finish the trip or might as well finish the trip when the temptation is to turn back after half an hour and go somewhere for a beer or a cup of coffee.
This is how it was on this paddle. My plan was to endure paddling for an hour and then turning back for a total time on the water of about two hours rather than doing the usual turn around after 20 minutes which would have me back at the boat ramp in under an hour.
As it turned out, I was ready to turn back after half an hour of paddling but hung on and kept going down the estuary and in the general direction of San Francisco bay.
Having paddled two miles, I would normally turn back without having wasted too much time and gotten some exercise and taken in some of the sights. Unlike the scenery on land, the scenery on the water is always changing due to the mobile nature of the nautical bricabrac that floats in the water.
And here, in case you never read the country of origin labels on the stuff you buy is a picture of where your stuff comes from (China) and how it gets here (in containers) on top of a big ship. Most of the ships are black (American President Lines) but sometimes also blue (Maersk).
Returning to the journey, at this point I was about 45 minutes into the trip. This would have been a good time to turn back. I could have been back at the boat ramp in another 45 minutes and would not have done too much damage to the day. Instead I kept going forward since I could see the channel marker at the end of the estuary, just another mile or so off. Also, at this point I considered the option of paddling around the tip of the island over to where my shop is, taking the kayak out there and riding my bike home. More paddling but I wouldnt have to look at all the same stuff I looked at going out. And so I went.
So that was it. For he last part of the journey I had the wind in my back, wind out of the north with me heading south, then for the last mile, the wind off my left flank as I headed east.
Total mileage according to google maps, 7.6. Elapsed time, roughly 2 hours. After that, four miles home on my bicycle.
Since I dont get out in the kayak all that much, I was pleasantly exhausted, with my mind empty of thought, a wonderful state to be in, but came at the cost of spending two hours in a kayak.
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I dont often do these kinds of paddles because they take up too much time. Usually I drive the half mile to the boat ramp closest to my house and put the boat in the water for a short, less than an hour paddle. The truth is that I dont much care for paddling any amount of distance. Distance paddling is quite frankly boring. It is like driving on the interstate across Nebraska. Lovely, but unvarying views. It can be done if one works oneself into a trance. I much prefer playing around in waves, a little surfing, some rolling and just enough paddling to get warm. Then back to the car. But the bay has no surf, just short waves and when there are waves, there is also an unpleasant amount of wind. Tribulation exceeds excitation.
The trick when trying to paddle somewhere solo is to get oneself locked into some sort of no-return situation where one has to finish the trip or might as well finish the trip when the temptation is to turn back after half an hour and go somewhere for a beer or a cup of coffee.
This is how it was on this paddle. My plan was to endure paddling for an hour and then turning back for a total time on the water of about two hours rather than doing the usual turn around after 20 minutes which would have me back at the boat ramp in under an hour.
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| The view at the Grand Avenue boat ramp in Alameda. The nose of my kayak is visible in the foreground. Beyond that, the estuary which in this region goes by the name of Oakland inner harbor. The white ship in the background is one of the coastguard cutters tied up to the pier on Coastguard Island. To the left lies Oakland Middle Harbor and the Bay. |
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| A nice purple boat house about two miles down the estuary. |
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| Some more boat houses. Jack London used to tie up the Snark somewhere around here before he took off for Hawaii. |
| The Snark on the estuary. |
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| A tug tied up to a barge. The big white thing behind it is one of the floating dry docks at Bay Ship. Off to the right, the iconic cranes of Oaklands container port, images of which turn up on tee shirts. |
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| The SF to Oakland ferry passing by a scrap metal carrier. The soundtrack here is of big chunks of metal being dropped into the metal hold of the ship, creating much clanking. |

Returning to the journey, at this point I was about 45 minutes into the trip. This would have been a good time to turn back. I could have been back at the boat ramp in another 45 minutes and would not have done too much damage to the day. Instead I kept going forward since I could see the channel marker at the end of the estuary, just another mile or so off. Also, at this point I considered the option of paddling around the tip of the island over to where my shop is, taking the kayak out there and riding my bike home. More paddling but I wouldnt have to look at all the same stuff I looked at going out. And so I went.
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| I did it. I paddled out into the bay and rounded the corner of the island. Off to the left, newly installed steel pilings to prevent toxic trash from decades past from washing into the bay. The VA intends to build a hospital here on top of the toxic soil so the deal is to bulldoze about six feet of untoxic soil over the top of the toxic soil and thats that. When it rains, water moves in a downward direction so the toxins move down or sideways, but not up. Anyway, thats what they claim and their lawyers approve. |
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| The view west across the bay, about two miles distant the bay bridge and beyond that, the red lead primer painted Golden Gate Bridge. At water level, decommissioned warehouses where cargo used to be unloaded the old-fashioned way by longshoremen. Now the warehouses are home to restaurants and circus troupes. |
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| The end is in sight. The structure ahead is in line with one of the disused runways of the former Alameda Naval Airstation. Runway lights were mounted atop this structure. Now it is used mostly by aquatic birds. Gulls, cormorants and on this day, one great blue heron. Visible in back and to the left, the Shop, where the aquatic portion of my journey ends. |
Total mileage according to google maps, 7.6. Elapsed time, roughly 2 hours. After that, four miles home on my bicycle.
Since I dont get out in the kayak all that much, I was pleasantly exhausted, with my mind empty of thought, a wonderful state to be in, but came at the cost of spending two hours in a kayak.
























