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Tampilkan postingan dengan label shop. Tampilkan semua postingan

Senin, 23 Januari 2017

4th of July in the boat shop

It was a busy 4th of July weekend in my cramped little boat shop. I set out my U.S. Yacht Ensign flag, and got right to work.

After a week of shaping that mahogany shim on the port chine, I finally got it to a point I was satisfied with. So, without any more delays, I epoxied on the forward bottom planking.


The shim on the port chine

Glen-L Utility hull planking
3/4 of the bottom planking is now attached.
This time around, I used System Three Silvertip epoxy, thickened with the remainder of my collected mahogany sawdust. I learned a valuable lesson about using thickened epoxy versus Gel Magic.

Although I used the remainder of my mahogany sawdust, the mixture was still not as viscous as Gel Magic. However, it sure seemed thick enough to do the job. In the end, I used perhaps 2/3 as much epoxy for the port side as Id used of GelMagic when I did the starboard. Not only that, but it was easier and faster to apply. This saved me time, stress, and money.... some pretty good selling points. 

I still had plenty... PLENTY... of squeeze-out to fill the gaps I was concerned about, too.

I also used 4” spacing on the screws for this side, compared to the 3” spacing I used on the starboard side. The planking contact seemed just as good, and I used 3/4 as many screws (73 this time, compared to 97 before). Again, this saved me time, stress and money.

And yes, this time I did remember to scrape away excess epoxy from the areas where I’ll need to fit the butt blocks.
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Selasa, 13 September 2016

Deck Carlins and shop maintenance

The temperature in the garage is now below 40 degrees, so I am refraining from doing any serious amount of gluing and epoxying.  I did discover that I can assemble the structures temporarily using hot melt glue.  This has allowed be to physically test the rowing positions, and the angle of the deck carlin (to which the combing gets attached).  This is a good find and will glue the blocking in place when we get a warmer day.  Other off season projects are:

  • complete purge of the basement workshop
  • clean and reorganize the garage building space
  • sharpen hand tools and saws
  • throw out all broken tools and replace with working ones.  
  • Sift through the paints, varnishes, and toss or replace as needed
  • discard worn out brushes
It seems as if I have acquired many, many handtools over the past 50 years.  Some belonged to my grandfather, my father-inlaw, and his father.  Some of these are unique,  others not so much and of questionable value.










11-25-14
Some surprise weather today! 60 degrees, so deck carlins are in as well a oarlock locations, and stern deck framing.  Have started on the cockpit hatches as well.  Working on the corner pieces that need 13" radius.  and 8" radius,  also need to add plywood gussets.


Put a chisel through my finger cutting this block down to size to bolt the stem fitting through by freehanding the 3/4" chisel and NOT wearing gloves.  Bad idea.  Could have been more serious.  



December 19 update
Was tired of looking at the remaining plywood at the back of the garage and figured I would at least lay out the decking in the rough to see what it would look like as well as gauge whether or not I will need one more sheet of plywood.  This all now depends on whether or not I use 1/4" okoume for the combings or use some other wood.  Honestly, the cost would be about the same so will probably go with ash as it shapes well, bends well, and looks fantasic under varnish.  It is prone to rot, so keeping up the finish is essential.  


It now looks like a boat!  

Other project this month is to finish the rudder and tiller assembly as well as mount the gudgeons and pintles.  
Tiller.  Roughed to shape.



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Rabu, 01 Juni 2016

Independence Day weekend in the boat shop



The long 4th of July weekend proved very productive. 

I taped off the "waterline" again, and painted a third coat of Sea Foam Green on the bottom. The transition line between the green and the Whidbey White is now much cleaner. Whereas I had "rolled and tipped" the sides for a smooth finish, I simply rolled the bottom, leaving a more textured finish.

How I marked the waterline:
Although I did not try to mark and paint a "true" waterline on the Utility, I did want to avoid the notable upsweep in the bottom paint that you often see on plywood boats. That upsweep comes from following the general practice of painting 2" above the chine (the joint between the side planking and the bottom planking). Maintaining that distance above the chine for the full length of the boat tends to exaggerate the upswept curve where the chine approaches the bow. 

To try to minimize this, I marked 1-1/2 inches above the chine from the transom to the forward-most frame. From there, I marked the line "downward" so that it ended on the actual seam between the side and bottom planking, at the bow. This wont leave a flat waterline, but hopefully the upsweep at the front wont be excessive.


THIS time, to avoid smudges from newspaper ink, I used plastic sheeting to cover the sides of the boat when I painted a 3rd coat on the bottom.

I made & carpeted new bunks for the trailer...
The original bunks were 38" long. These are just a little longer, at 48".
Did I mention I had epoxied the boat to the construction form?
Well, I did. So, another thing I did over the holiday weekend was to lift the boat hull up onto two concrete blocks and a 2x8 balanced on a toolbox. That provided me just enough room to crawl underneath the hull and start cutting away the construction form with a reciprocating saw. So far, Ive got about half of the form cut away. It has actually been kind of fun. Ive also gotten my first view of the inside of the boat.

The Utilitys hull propped up on two concrete blocks, a toolbox, and a 2x8 board.
This pile of rubble is whats left of half the construction form.
Underneath the boat, heres the transom, transom knees, etc...

Looking forward, from the middle part of the boat toward the bow.
Backing block for the butt joint on the starboard side.
Backing block for the butt joint on the port side.
Butt joints across the bottom.


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