False battens blocking for deck framing and shiny stuff

Trying to push this project on toward completion, tonight I started measuring for the deck framing. So far, it has been mercifully simple.

I clamped my big adjustable T-Square onto the forward frame at the centerline, and measured the halfway point between the frame and the breasthook. Then, I set my 48" ruler across that halfway point, at right angles to the T-Square. After determining the rulers contact point with the sheer was an equal distance from the frame on both sides, I clamped the ruler into place, and marked the sheers. Then, I measured the angle at the intersection of the ruler and the sheer. Thankfully, it was a very easy-to-cut 20°. 

Measuring for the deck framing.

The blocking for the deck framing required a simple 20° cut. Here is the starboard side being epoxied into place.

Blocking for the deck framing on the port side.

Here, the false battens on the floor are being epoxied into place. All those boards look a little excessive to my eye, but the false battens do serve a practical purpose.

Tonight I drilled the holes & installed the stainless steel grab handle on the forward frame. The first time I rode in a Glen-L Utility, I realized this is a "must-have" item.

Progress...

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Deck framing completed

I suppose this wraps up the "blocking" phase I mentioned about a month ago. The last of the blocking was to support the deck framing, (which, on this little boat, only consists of two parts: a deck beam and a strongback).

I wasnt exactly sure where or how to trim and attach the strongback. I wound up following some examples from photos Id seen online, and I trimmed it short enough to let it mate to the back of the breasthook. Its hard to tell just yet, but that may have created an excessive downward curve. Time will tell. Once I get the bow and the remaining parts of the sheers faired in preparation for the decking, I should be able to tell if it will need a little shim on the top or not.

The deck framing is simply epoxied into place... no screws. Heres a photo of all the clamps & spreader bars involved.

Deck framing with the clamps removed.

Blocking for the strongback, on the back of the breasthook.

Blocking on the sheers, to support the deck beam.

Blocking on the back of frame #2, to support the strongback.

Notch in the deck beam for the strongback.

This part at the bow needs to be faired before the decking can be put on.

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Beginning the deck framing

Primarily due to budget restrictions at the moment, I decided to build the deck framing out of southern yellow pine. After digging through every board at Lowes until I found one with relatively vertical grain (if its a good 45° diagonal or better, Ill take it), I walked out with enough wood to build the deck framing for about $7. Not bad.

Besides, Ive entrusted my chines and sheers to this strong, flexible, and affordable wood, so I have no problem at all using it for deck framing.

The first step was cutting the actual deck beam (the part that fits crosswise from sheer to sheer). The widest distance at the blocking for the deck frame measured 42 inches. So, I measured & marked the board, and cut it with my circular mitre saw set at 20° to match the curvature of the sheer. Then, I clamped the cut board to the back of the forward frame, and traced the curvature (crown) of its deck beam onto the pine.

I cut it, and fit it into place. The photos easily tell the rest...

Deck beam clamped into place against the blocking on the starboard side.

Once the deck beam is epoxied into position, I will add additional blocking on the forward side, like this.

Port side, with the deck beam and forward blocking clamped into place.

Thank you for taking the time to read my blog, by the way. I hope that you find it helpful.

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