Yurt Report Wind Test

Two nights ago, the yurt underwent a spontaneous wind test.  A front with wind gusts up to 50mph moved through the area.  The bushes and trees were rattling against the fences and roofs and making a spectacular amount of noise.  And then I realized that I had recently skinned up the yurt.  It had survived the previous winter without problems but that was as a bare frame.  With the skin on, the wind would be able to exert more pressure on it.  I was tempted to drive out to the shop and check the yurt right away but decided to wait till morning to assess the damage if any.

Next morning I drove to the shop.  The first thing I saw was the flag down on the ground.  This wasnt a good sign. 

I went to the back of the shop with some trepidation but there was the yurt, still standing, albeit with the roof cover partly blown off.  This was no big deal since I had not sewn the final seam and the cover had a tendency to get blown off even in a light wind.

A few of the roof poles had also lost their moorings and fallen to the ground. I suspect what happened that made the poles fall down was that the flexing of the wall in the wind distorted the round shape of the walls into an oval, popping off the tension band and allowing the top of the wall to bow out to where the roof poles were able to pull loose.

The tension band, the green rope, is inside the wall instead of outside, apparently just rolled over the top of the wall.

Putting the yurt back together took maybe 15 minutes. So the test was useful, revealed some more of how the yurt works.  I already knew that the wall was a little too flexible.  Now I knew another reason why it should be a little stiffer, to not distort in a strong wind and allow the roof poles to come loose.  Also the roof covering needs better tiedowns, something I just hadnt bothered with yet.

Oh, and I untangled the flag and got it back to the top of the pole.

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What Killed the Kayak Aleut Version Akutan Alaska

Akutan, Alaska is an island in the Aleutians and once a place where people paddled kayaks as a part of making a living.  Nowadays the biggest industry on the island is a fish processing plant.  Trawlers scrape the bottom of the ocean for fish and bring them to the processing plant to have them turned into product suitable for sale in the lower 48. The Aleut population of the island actually has very little to do with the fish plant other than extracting rent from them.  Still, the kayak as a tool for hunting, fishing and whaling is no longer in use.

The fish plant at Akutan.
Photo courtesy of Kurt Schmidt

The big  rusty things are doors on a trawl. Picture a net like a large sock with one of these doors on either side sliding along the bottom and funneling fish into the sock.  Nothing escapes.
Human added for scale.

Iron weights hold the bottom of the net close to the bottom of the ocean.

Nets.

Nets.

Bye, bye Akutan Kayaks.

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Deck Hardware and sail report

July 20, 2015

Sorry for the lack of updates.  But, I wanted to go sailing this summer and decided to put the computer on hold in exchange for a full focus on finishing the boat.

Deck hardware was installed with backing blocks, and polysulphide sealant.  It is amazing how many little screws, washers, lock washers, bolts, and nuts are needed to install the cleats and blocks.  This necessitated no fewer than 5 trips to my local hardware store that has a very good selection of stainless steel hardware (amazingly out of $10 lockwashers).  The only tricky part was the installation of the centerboard downhaul and uphaul, as this was a new type of system I needed to learn as I went along.  In practice, it works well, but necessitated shaving down the aft part of the floorboards that serve as a platform up front so that the lines would run free.

I also needed to move the boat onto the trailer, which meant the 18 workskiff needed to come off.  Using levers and jacks, I was able to lift the 1000lb clamming skiff off the trailer and then slide the Core Sound 17 onto the trailer from the building form using old rugs to protect the finish.  

The CS17 fits perfectly.  

I still need to add the self-bailer, and the docking hardware, and oarlocks, but it was time to get out on the water and see how long it would take to rig and launch.  

30 minutes to step masts and rig.  could be 15 without mistakes. 

As you can see from the photo above, there was very little wind, but the boat moved along even with ghosting conditions.  

photos of the launch. 

https://www.flickr.com/photos/41024536@N02/sets/72157655720562508

July, 21,2015

Went out to Hopkinton State Park.  It was much better with winds 5-12kts.  The boat sails beautifully, and points very well.  I was very pleased with how easy the boat is to control and how well it responds to gusts.  I felt in control at all times throughout.  

Sorry, no photos, I had my hands full.  

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Sailing report Buzzards Bay !

Arrived in Wareham at the local ramp and put Blue J in for her first romp in Buzzards Bay.  My daughter and I went out in about 30 minutes of rigging/launching and spent three hours on the bay prior to the weather closing in on us.  Sorry, no photos.  My phone was in the waterproof lock box, and the crew left hers at home.

This boat sails well in a 3-12kt NNW.  We were able to point within 90 degrees which is quite respectable.  It takes very little wind to move her along, and if we were not on a time table, would have left the motor at home. But, due to severe thunderstorms forecast, we opted to have an escape option.

A few little projects are cropping up after 3 sails.  One is to move the sheeting arrangement for the mizzen around.  I am not fond of reaching behind to trim the mizzen, and it fouls the motor and rudder.  Standard end boom sheeting off a loop from the tiller might work.  or moving the cleat to the mast.  As a temporary solution, I am going to try attaching a fiberglass driveway stake to the motor cowl and point it down the shaft of the motor.  This should keep the line from snagging the knob on the Tohatsu that is used to tighten the motor so that it stays once you let go of the motors tiller.

Switching out the clam cleats on the coaming for cam cleats on the seat are also to be investigated.  Drink holders are a must as well.  We need places to put the water bottles down.

When I started this project, my demands were:

1.  It is to be a sailboat to replace the 1969 Enterprise Sailing Dinghy that is too tough on my back and knees.  Additionally, winter storm Snowmageddon 2015 did a lot of damage to the Enterprise hull.  Yes.  This was dead spot on!   

2.  Able to carry a few guests but not too many!  3 is perfect, 4 a crowd, but doable in up to a moderate breeze.  

3.  Can be built in a single car garage.  Yes,  but barely.  I did move it outdoors to attach hardware, and finish the coaming / deck.  I got tired of moving stuff around it, and banging my head on the ceiling beams. 

4.  Sails well and can handle Buzzards Bay and Nantucket Sound.  So far, so good.  We have only had up to 12 kt breezes under full sail, which moves the boat very well without too much panic from the crew.  I think 15 and above will require one reef.  

5.  Easily launched and rigged in 15 minutes so as to encourage using the boat.  So far, 30 minutes for a rookie,  I know I can get this to 20 minutes with practice.  

6.  Not too expensive.  (ok, not too cheap.  This snowballed a little as I went for more expensive stuff, could have lived without the motor).  It is the finish work that is expensive.  I spent way too much on water based polyurethane, motors, and stuff I could have lived without.  The aluminum masts built in sections work very well and are economical.  

I think this is as close as I am going to get to perfection here.  It is a great boat.  

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Yurt Report Fire Test

Another update on the yurt.  As my shop mate Tim said, I liked it better when you were building boats.  Still, yurts is what you get for now.  This report is on the fire test, that is, on a test of whether I could build a fire in the yurt without choking on the smoke. 
But first, some outside views of the sixteen foot yurt with a skin on it.  This skin consists of big plastic banners that have done their duty.  They consist of a fabric substrate that is then coated with some sort of plastic.  On this, the graphic is printed. And when the date for the advertisement expires, they are tossed or handed off to some recycler. I got these from my friend Tim who got them from a neighbor. So yes, theyre  recycled.

I dont know why, but this particular skin gives the yurt a decided third world look.  Maybe its the ragged edge on the roof and the dirt on the white banner and the advertisement on the outside.  Looks like a place where you could buy used motor oil.

With just the white wall showing, the place looks a little more dignified.  Ropes that hold the roof and the wall in place courtesy of a friend who sold his sailboat.  Also ropes abandoned by fishing boats and washed ashore at Point Reyes National Seashore.

As I said, this is a test, the 16 foot yurt being a prototype for all aspects of the yurt technology. So far the test of the banners as a covering material has gone on for about a year.  I have already been using the banners as a cover for my kayaks.  What I found out is that the plastic deteriorates within a year, probably at the same rate as those ubiquitous blue tarps sold everywhere.   So I would probably use these plastic sheets only for temporary installations.  The amount of work to do a good job on covers isnt worth it given the short life of this stuff.  Still, for prototyping, they are just fine.  Beside the short lifetime of the banners, another major shortcoming is that they are heavy and stiff, especially in cold weather and getting them installed is quite a chore, especially for the roof.  The walls are not a problem.  There the stiffness is an asset. Plus you have to not be put off by whatever commercial message is printed on the banners. 
And now for the fire test.

The fire in progress with a bucket of water standing by just in case.

Here it is, the fire.  While the fire got going the yurt filled up with a good deal of smoke because the fire wasnt creating enough heat to generate a good updraft that would pull the smoke out of the smoke hole.  But once it burned nice and hot, the smoke was minimal, but that was with the door open.  I will have to do more testing, but I would say that with the door closed, you wouldnt really want a fire inside.  But then, having a fire would hardly be of much benefit. 
Also, this yurt is quite tall with 64 inch high walls and the smoke hole at about 10 feet elevation.  So this is a fair size space to dissipate the smoke. So for now, recommendations are, keep the sticks small to minimize smoke.  Get the fire going good and hot before you invite anyone inside the yurt, ideally, you would build up a good bed of embers first so any new wood on the fire would burn quickly without a lot of smoke.
Or get a stove. I ordered one and will report on that soon as I get it.

Shortly after sunset with some color remaining in the sky and the San Francisco skyline in the background and the tail end of Alameda in the foreground just past the yurt. 

Pretty much the same shot as the one before but with the sky just a bit darker and the yurt lit up just a little more. Either I stoked the fire or the sky got darker and the camera gave the whole picture a little more exposure.  In any case, the yurt is positively glowing.

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Flat Bottomed Kayaks of the Eastern Arctic

I am about to launch off on construction of a flat bottomed kayak of the Eastern Arctic type.  Since I know nothing about these kayaks, I dont know what to expect.  Supposedly they are reasonably fast in spite of their flat bottoms.  The big plus of these kayaks would be their stability.  Well see.

Eugene Arima has an article on this boat type HERE from which the illustration above was excerpted. The U of Alaska Press also has a book out on the kayaks of the Eastern Arctic. 
I also just paid ten bucks to get a manual from David Zimmerly on this type of kayak.
Zimmerly also has a reprint of his article in Sea Kayaker Magazine available.
And Harvey Golden has created a replica of the type of boat.
More to come.

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Sail report Buzzards Bay day 2

August 21

Took the boat back to Wareham.  It was a glorious day with winds 10-15 kts and crystal clear skies.

We sailed out to the middle of Buzzards Bay and then went back to the sand spit for lunch.

I cant say enough of how well this boat sails and the ease of launch and retrieval.

Lunch on the sand spit.  It doesnt get any better than this.

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Wood and Canvas Canoe Restoration Impending

I am about to launch into another wood and canvas canoe restoration, assuming the owner is willing to spend the money.  A new one of these kinds of canoes is about $4000, so anything less than $2000 for a restoration is probably a good deal.  Perhaps you would pay more if the boat was an heirloom and you have some emotional connection with it.
This boat looks like a good candidate.  The hull is in fairly good shape. It needs some varnish stripping, some new planking, new skin, paint, interior varnish, outwales, gunwale caps, thwarts and seat restoration and seat hardware. And after all that was replaced or fixed, the boat would once again look spiffy. And of course it would have that old-timey wood, paint and brass, handmade look.

The canoe minus its canvas skin.  Planking is white cedar over white cedar ribs.

A view of the top of the canoe, partially decked in mahogany.

Interior view showing ribs and assortment of rotted wood trim. 

Closeup on the rotted trim.  The curved piece at the top left is one of the exterior stems.

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Eastern Arctic Like Kayak Performance Report

I finally did it. Finished the EA kayak with some deviations from the traditional norm, painted it and headed out to the water to see how it paddled.

There it is by the side of the water.  Launch imminent as soon as I get in and start paddling.  Weight is between 50 and 60 pounds Im guessing.  Length is just short of 18 feet about 16 of which are in the water. Beam is somewhere around 27 inches. Two paddles are resting on the boat.  One Greenland style, 88 inches long and the other, an Aleut style with a 3 inch wide blade at 120 inches long, yes, thats right, ten feet long.
The big question was what sort of speed a flat bottomed boat could be paddled.
I had my GPS with me.  At the start of the test while I was still fresh, I managed to get the boat up to 5.6 mph. Cruising speed seemed to be between 3 and 4 mph. I did my usual two mile circuit once around Ballena Island. Wind was variable, maybe up to 15 mph and wind blown waves were about 1 foot max.  So not much of a rough weather test.
Overall, the boat seems to move about adequately.  Turning with the flat bottom is easy.  The boat responds quickly.  I thought that staying on track might be a problem but it turned out not to be.  The boat had no particular tendency to turn into or out of the wind and it had adequate length so it wasnt yawing right and left with each stroke.  Paddling both down and upwind was possible without any undue steering effort required. So all in all, the boat performed well.  I would still like to take it out on a rough day when waves are more like two feet, like a normal summer afternoon on the bay.
I ended up using the 120 inch paddle for most of the trip since it seemed to be a better match to the boat than the 88 inch paddle which required more effort to reach the water.
Overall, I felt that I needed more experience with the boat.  The initial outing left me feeling that its weight and speed was such that I need to discover some more positive attributes for the boat or it would not get much use. 
Speed is of course an ill defined measure.  What matters is efficiency.  Overall, the width and flat bottom of the boat are a combination that require a good deal more effort to make the boat go than just about any other kayak style that I have built.  If I were to build another version of this boat, I would probably decrease overall width and increase flare to the sides from the 10 degree flare that I put into this model. Increased flare would decrease the width of the bottom. I probably would also go with bent ribs to reduce weight of the boat and have some V in the bottom.  With lighter weight and less resistance  to movement this style of boat would be adequate for recreational use.
As I mentioned earlier, the boat also needs some rough water testing to see how the flat bottom handles going over waves.

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