Starboard Fiberglassing Finished

It has been a while since Ive worked on the boat. However, Im back at it, and just finished fiberglassing the starboard side a few days ago. Here are a few photos...

6oz fiberglass cloth taped into place. I hadnt noticed the cloth had shifted before I cut it at the bow.

I left enough extraneous area to make it easy to cut  the cloth after the side was soaked with epoxy.

Ive found that its much easier to remove the tape by pulling it AWAY from the fiberglass cloths frayed edge than toward it. MUCH less hassle.

Cloth wetted out with epoxy resin & trimmed along the bottom.

Because I hadnt noticed that the cloth shifted earlier, I cut away too much around the bow, and did not have enough cloth to lap over onto the port side.

I mis-judged and mixed WAY too much epoxy, so I went ahead and fiberglassed part of the port side using the scrap cloth cut from the bow area.

I have also cut and assembled the transom knee for the Zip. I dont have photos at the moment, so more on that later....

Read More..

Fiberglassing Completed

With the sounds of the Hallelujah Chorus still echoing in my ears, Im happy to say that fiberglassing work on the Utility hull is finally completed. Ive added a second layer of epoxy to the whole thing, and the next step will be to sand it down smooth in preparation for painting. Until then, at least, its nice and shiny.

The Next Problem?
For planing boats, the bottom of the hull is supposed to be flat along the aft 1/3 of its length. If its not flat, the boat will likely tend to porpoise (bounce up and down at the bow) at higher speeds.

For an 11-foot boat, 1/3 the length would be 3.67 feet. Checking the bottom of my boat with a 48" level, Ive found that the aft 36 inches is fairly flat. However, in the aft 48 inches, there is a noticeable hook that is about 1/16" in depth. So the unanswered question is, "will it porpoise?" Since the bottom of the hull is not as long the top, and the final 36 inches is flat... perhaps itll be okay. Perhaps not. Only time will tell.

Even though I dont know for certain just yet, Im tempted to go ahead and add a wedge to the bottom of the hull while its still upside-down and easily accessible. Ill think about it.

The gap between the hull and the level shows a hook of approximately 1/16" depth.

Progress on the Zip
Ive got the transom knee for the Zip built. While the plans call for a 1-1/2" wide knee (two 3/4" plywood parts laminated together), Ive added additional 1/4" pieces on either side to widen the knee to 2 inches. It should be plenty strong. 

Transom knee for the Zip.

Read More..

More fiberglassing photos

The next section of fiberglass cloth "draped and taped" before applying the epoxy.

After the epoxy is applied, the fiberglas cloth is all but invisible.

I have tried to be as meticulous as possible with the transom. However, I will have to sand those areas where the fiberglass cloth overlaps it.

Read More..

Fiberglassing begins

Finally, the time came to start fiberglassing the hull of the Utility. Id ordered some 6oz fiberglass cloth in both 50-inch and 38-inch widths from Jamestown Distributors. After reviewing the book and DVD on How to Fiberglass Boats from Glen-L, (which I consider a must-have resource on the subject), I was ready to begin.

Edges of the hull rounded-over in preparation for fiberglassing.

The first step was to round over the edges of the hull so that the fiberglass cloth will conform fully to the edges. According to the book and DVD, fiberglass cloth cannot conform to a sharp angle. So, rounding the edges allows the fiberglass cloth to remain in contact with the wood on the edges, eliminating air pockets. Air pockets would be potential trouble spots for trapping water, resulting in rot, etc. What I quickly learned in practice is that it does not require much "rounding over" to be effective... at least not with 6oz cloth.

Since the Utilitys transom is only 44 inches wide, I decided to apply the full 3 yards of 50" cloth from the transom to 70% of the hull bottom as one continuous piece. Wetting the fiberglass cloth with epoxy was actually pretty easy, by simply following what Id learned in the Glen-L book and DVD. The only "surprise" was that it took more epoxy to do the job than Id expected. Using the thin foam rollers made the process quite simple.

Fiberglass cloth applied to the transom.

Just as I did when encapsulating the hull, I meticulously squeegied excess epoxy off of the transom. This will mean Ill have to apply more layers of epoxy to completely cover the texture of the fiberglass cloth on the transom. However, it should also result in an attractive finish.

The "rounded-over" edges after applying more epoxy and the fiberglass cloth.

Feathering the edges

After the epoxy had fully cured, the next step was to begin feathering the edges of the fiberglass cloth. This is basically just sanding down the edge so that, when the next section of cloth is added, they will overlap on the "feathered" seam. Then, after sanding the seam once again after the second layer of cloth is applied, the seam will be flush with the rest of the surface.

Here you can see the feathered edge, where the forward edge of the fiberglass cloth has been sanded. This shows in the photo as the lighter band across the bottom of the hull.

A more detailed view of the feathered (sanded) edge at the transition joint on the chine. As you see, the edge of the fiberglass on the hull side has not been sanded yet.

The next step is to round over the sharp edge of the bow, and lightly sand the epoxy surface on the forward bottom. Then Ill be able to fiberglass those areas.

Read More..

The Utility Fiberglassing continues

I left off at the last post discussing "feathering" the edge of the fiberglass-covered area. This is simply sanding the edge down in order to have a smooth overlapped seam when you add the next, neighboring section of fiberglass cloth.

With 70% of the boats bottom covered, I feathered the forward edge of the fiberglassed area. I also rounded over the sharp edge on the bow. With this done, I was ready to add the next section of fiberglass cloth: covering the forward bottom on the port side of the hull.

It went very smoothly. Again, I highly recommend Ken Hankinsons book How To Fiberglass Boats, as it (and the accompanying DVD) make the process very easy to understand. 

Working alone, its difficult to photograph the fiberglassing process because Im mostly preoccupied with handling the epoxy (which I dont want to get all over my camera with messy, gloved hands). However, this time Ive tried to better show what some of the stages look like:

Photo from the previous post, showing the partially-feathered edge at the chine transition joint.

The same area after the new section of fiberglass cloth was added. On the left, you can see the edge of the new overlapping section. This will need to be sanded as well, to make the overlapping seam smooth.

Feathering the edge that has overlapped the bow.

Feathering the edge that has overlapped the bow.

Fiberglassed transom, after a 2nd coat of epoxy (squeegied meticulously) to fill the weave of the 6oz fiberglass cloth.

Read More..