Eastern Arctic Kayak Historical Construction Photos

I have some historical photos of Eastern Arctic kayak construction.  I have no idea where I got them.  But here they are.  Mostly what I want to comment on is the fact that while these photos dont reveal all that much, they do reveal some general specifics about Arctic kayak construction methodology.
The most important revelation to me is that these boats were built without the benefit of any sort of building platform other than what looks like pretty bumpy ground.  What this means is that in order to get a symmetrical boat, the builders had to rely on the parts of the boat itself to achieve symmetry.  The deck, once built became the building platform for the rest of the boat.

This boat frame appears to be almost done.  The builder appears to be doing some trimming with a hand saw, or maybe he is just using the deck of the kayak for a saw horse to cut a piece of wood.

Meanwhile, a little earlier in the building process, this builder has inserted some rib blanks into their mortises.  Bending and trimming the ribs remains to be done. 

Women are covering a finished frame in canvas.  It looks as though they will have some canvas left over.  The fact that they are using canvas indicates that this photo was taken very near the end of the era of kayak construction.  And the building site is remarkable for its ruggedness.  No nicely swept floor, strictly open air.

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Stegosaurus Boat Construction

Ben, my neighbor at the shop is building a motor boat. The process of boat building is a great deal easier than it used to be due to CAD files and NC routers. The long and the short of it is that you no longer need drawings from which to build a boat.  The shape of the boat parts is contained in a file that can be downloaded to a numerically controlled (NC) router that cuts not only the molds but also the frames and bulkheads that make up the boat.  Once all the molds are routed out, they are assembled in a manner that resembles one of these stegosaurus models they sell in museum gift shops.

 Once you have all the molds and frames assembled, you are ready to glue the permanent components together.  After that, you cover the whole thing in plywood and then in fiberglass and epoxy resin and you have yourself a boat.  No lofting and other traditional unpleasantness.

The view from the rear.  Note the cramped quarters.  Luckily, Ben has all of his machinery on wheels so he can roll it out of the way or into position as need be.

Three quarters view from the rear.  The plywood stays in the boat and the stuff without grain is temporary molds and gets removed.

The view from the front of the stegosaurus.

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Eastern Arctic Kayak Construction Interlude

Yesterday I blocked in the keelson on  the inverted deck of the kayak in preparation for installing the ribs.  I am now at a crossroads where there are a number of ways to construct the ribs.  Not knowing exactly what the shape of the bottom of the kayak should be since I have never built this type of kayak before, I have to come up with a way to do this.  I can think of any number of ways to proceed but would like to go with the aboriginal scheme of shaping the ribs, whatever that is. 
Zimmerly is of no help here. His article in Sea Kayaker gives you the exact dimensions to cut the ribs to.  This only works if you also shaped the deck exactly like he instructed.  Since my deck is not shaped like his, his dimensions will do me no good.
I could do the ribs the way I normally do them, that is, steam bend them which would produce rounded chines and a slightly rounded bottom, but I want to go for the flat bottom and hard bends in the ribs approach that is more common for the EA kayak.  I guess I will just have to experiment and see what happens.

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Eastern Arctic Kayak Construction Blocking in the keelson

My last post on the EA kayak, probably should be called EC kayak for Eastern Canadian kayak, mentioned that I blocked in the keelson.  But I didnt have any photos yet.  Now I do. 

This view shows the pieces of two by four that hold the keelson at the desired distance from the deck. Pieces of rope hold the chunks of wood in place.

Heres an overview of the entire assembly.  I installed a block of wood at each deck beam.  I usually do this since when I install steam bent ribs; they push up on the keelson and distort its shape unless I lash the keelson down very securely. But in this case, the ribs will be flat and exert no pressure on the keelson and so would not need all this blocking. I kept the keelson pretty straight.  Regular EA kayaks have some upsweep near the stern to let the kayak turn into the wind when the hunter is approaching game.  But for recreational kayak, turning into the wind is an annoyance and not an asset and so I have chosen to keep the keelson straight.

Heres a view of the setup for an EA kayak. The rib blanks have been inserted into their mortises and await bending.  The height of the ribs will be judged by eye and the keelson wont be added until all the ribs are in place.  This is probably more efficient than what I am doing if you know what the bottom profile of the boat should look like.  I imagine they bent a few key ribs and filled in the rest for a smooth transition between them.

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Eastern Arctic Kayak Construction adding the deck beams

Construction progresses.  After I set up the deck, I started adding deck beams.  They are temporarily nailed in place 3/4 inches below the top of the gunwales. 

Before starting to add deck beams, it is a good idea to stabilize the deck by lashing the ends together and also doweling the two sides together so they dont shift with respect with each other which would cause asymmetry in the deck.

The deck prior to pegging the ends and dropping in deck beams.

And here, at the end of the day, all the flat deck beams are trial nailed in place.  You could of course dowel all the deck beams in place as you go but trial nailing them lets you do some last minute adjustments in deck shape before committing to more permanent joinery.

The last two deck beams to be added are the two curved ones just fore of the cockpit.  Shaping them is more time consuming than shaping the flat ones.  Unlike the flat deck beams which are mounted 3/4 inches below the top of the gunwales, the curved beams are mounted flush with the tops of the gunwales.  A batten is temporary clamped in place to show the curve that the deck stringer will take.  The beam just in front of the cockpit will elevate the front of the coaming 4 inches above the deck.

And here is a view down the length of the boat with all the deck beams in place.  The number of beams, coincidentally is less than in a traditional boat to keep down the overall weight of the finished boat.

And just before I started adding in the two curved deck beams, I had a crisis of faith about where the widest part of the boat should be.  Seemed like it wasnt far back enough.  But then I checked back with the drawing in Arimas book on EA kayaks and it appears that my placement was OK.  Seems that the original for this adaptation was a demo boat done for a Canadian museum and was shorter than the type usually is because available lumber was only 16 feet long.  So a shorter version with a slightly more forward beam was built.  In any case, the first boat of a type is never just right and gets modified when the second one is built.

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Eastern Arctic Kayak Construction Ribs

Back to working on the EA kayak after more than a months hiatus.
Today I tried notching and bending a stick for ribs, but there was so little wood connecting the segments that I gave up and decided to just do the ribs in three parts.  At the same time, I started refinishing an old wood and canvas canoe so I didnt finish the ribs but got far enough to work out how it will be.
Pictures follow.

View from the bow.  Set sides of the ribs are sitting in their mortises, ready to be trimmed to proper length.  On the ground, just to the left of the EA is a stitch and glue surf ski that somebody dropped there.  Dont know who.  I will have to call some of my friends to find out who it was.  Soon as I get caught up on building, I will go and try out that surf ski.

The first completed rib.  I just nailed the center section to the sides with bronze ring nails.  Seems to work.  The joint will be backed up with some stringers. Note the battens clamped to the sides of the rib sides to mark them for where they will be trimmed.

Side view of the stringer the top of which marks the elevation at which the rib sides will be trimmed.  Ribs are roughly 5/8 by 1/2 inches.

The view from inside in the direction of the stern.  Those ropes look so nautical.

Another shot down the center of the kayak. The first completed rib is visible.  Tomorrow, I trim the rest and cut and nail the remaining center sections in place.

And the ribs near the bow.  With any luck, this frame will be completed soon.

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Methane Vents

As  permafrost melts, it releases methane. The methane exits the permafrost via vents which until recently were  small like the one pictured  but in the past year have increased in size to hundreds of feet across.  Careful when you light a cigarette.

Forget the effect of CO2 in the atmosphere on the temperature of the earth.  Methane is the gas du jour because it is 26 times as good an insulator as CO2.  CO2 is merely a gateway gas that sets us up for methane, the really bad stuff.  If you think where you live isnt warm enough, methane is the answer.  A little video here. I am providing a link since the blogger cant be embed flash videos. So flare away.
Actually, we did need to increase the CO2  in the atmosphere to the point where the Arctic was warm enough to release methane on its own accord.  We seem to be there now. Each year promises more melting in the Arctic and further release of methane. So CO2 did its part and can now step into the background.
What does this have to do with skinboats?  Nothing really other than that their use has very little effect on either CO2 or methane concentrations in the atmosphere.  Skinboats, in the current lingo are practically carbon neutral or can be made to be carbon neutral with some effort.  On the other hand, using skinboats does nothing to reduce the release of methane into the atmosphere and though it isnt hurting things, it isnt helping either.

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Eastern Arctic Kayak Construction Doweling and lashing the deck beams

In the previous post we looked at cutting and installing all the deck beams.  I chose to temporarily nail them in place.  While the method I chose is not traditional for this type of boat, it works well enough and is quick.  The Eastern Arctic method is one of digging shallow divots in the sides of the gunwales and pointing the ends of the deck beams to fit into the divots. See the Zimmerly Sea Kayaker Article for details on how this works. The main advantage of this approach is that if you dont have steel tools, it is an easier way to do the joinery since it doesnt require as much precise cutting.  The lashing which comes next holds the ends of the deck beams in their divots.  This method was also apparently used in Greenland until contact with whalers made steel available to them.  East Greenlanders also used the divot method.
The following photos show some details of my hybrid approach of doweled deck beams and traditional running lashing. Doing lashings like everything else in kayak constructions can be done in a number of different ways.  Aside from the lashing patterns themselves there is also the local vs. the running lashing approach.  Running lashings seem to be favored where the lashing material is rawhide.  Where string was available, lashings were more likely to be tied off at each joint.  Another factor in the decision of which way to go was the strength of the lashing material.  Weaker string would take multiple turns at each joint which favors tying off the string.  Running lashings favor a stronger binding medium like rawhide since a break of the lashing anywhere along its length would make the whole run unravel. 

This lashing runs left to right.  The string goes into a hole in the gunwales under the deckbeam to the outside of the gunwale.  Then it goes up in another hole in the gunwale and exits at the top of the gunwale.  Next it goes through the deck beam, loops around the string coming in at the left and heads off on the right.

This shot shows the lashing moving from deck beam to deck beam. The lashing material is tarred seine twine a little under an eighth of an inch in diameter running through 3/16th inch holes.  The tarred seine twine is stiff enough so that it can be pushed through the holes without the need to additional tools.

A view from the outside showing both the dowels and the lashing coming out of the gunwale at the bottom and then heading right in again above.  Note that one of the downsides of dowels and this lashing scheme is that you have to be careful not to drill through the dowels when making the lashing holes.

A view of the lashings from below the deck beam.  The lashing makes its way through the gunwales and comes back again, taking off to the right after looping around its incoming arm from the left.

And finally, a side view of the arrangement.  Note that the deck beams sits about 3/4 of an inch below the top of the gunwale.

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Zip stem construction

Todays blog post is about assembling the stem for my Glen-L Zip. The Zips stem, as with many Glen-L designs, is made from two identically shaped pieces of 3/4" marine-grade plywood, laminated together with marine epoxy and fastened with silicon bronze screws.

This is now the third stem Ive built; the other two being for a Squirt and a Utility. Learning from previous experience, I did a few things differently this time.

First, I spent much more time and care in shaping the pieces beforehand. I feel very comfortable this time around with the shape being correct.

Second, I used less epoxy. The other two times, I globbed a bunch of thickened epoxy on, just to make certain there was enough. In reality, that just creates more of a mess, because the majority of it squeezes out.

Third, I kept a putty knife ready to scrape away the epoxy that squeezed out from between the two layers of plywood. This makes for much less sanding afterwards.

Also, having learned a tip from a fellow boatbuilder, I used an awl to quickly align the pre-drilled holes before driving the screws back in. This proved to be a great time-saver, since it can be a little tricky to mate the holes back together with epoxy spread over the wood, (particularly while wearing latex gloves, goggles, and a respirator).

For the epoxy, I used Glen-L Poxy Shield, thickened slightly with #2 silica. Poxy-shield is mixed in a 5:1 ratio, using 5 parts resin to 1 part hardener. It can be hard to find very small mixing cups in order to measure small batches of epoxy, so Ive used my own method. I take a regular off-the-shelf mixing cup, and measure the distance between the pre-printed volume marks. So far, all the cups Ive used had a distance of 8mm between the 4oz and 8oz markings. So, I add marks every 2mm between them to show the 5oz, 6oz and 7oz lines. That way, I can pour in 5oz of resin, then add hardener until the mixture reaches the 6oz line. There are, no doubt, more accurate ways to go about this. However, this way is quick, simple, cheap, and effective.

Perhaps not the most scientific method, but it works.

After mixing and thickening the epoxy, I spread it out on the mating surfaces of each stem piece, making sure the whole area was covered. Then, I put the pieces together & aligned a couple of holes with the awl. I dipped the silicon bronze screws in a little epoxy, then drove them down into the holes. Then, I clamped the pieces together solidly, driving the screws in further as needed. Afterwards, I scraped away the epoxy that had squeezed out from between the layers before the epoxy became unworkable. Then I left it alone to let the epoxy cure overnight.

Everything ready to go: Stem parts, Poxy-Shield resin and hardener, #2 silica, mixing cups, mixing stick, chip brush, awl, screwdriver, extra screws (just in case), clamps, and putty knife.

Glued, screwed, clamped and scraped with the epoxy curing.

On a final note, I also worked on the Utility over the weekend... still fairing. It seems like a never-ending process, but its getting there.

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Eastern Arctic Kayak Construction Shaping the Deck

Ive got the deck of the Eastern Arctic Kayak (EAK) set up.  Beam is something like 29 inches at 90 inches from the stern. I figured that the first three feet of the boat werent in the water so I would put the widest part of the boat more or less in the middle of the part that was in the water which worked out to be at about 90 inches from the back.

View from the bow end. Theres a windlass just back of the bow to pinch in the sides. Aside from the coils of rope that hold the ends together, three spreaders fix the shape of the deck.  The middle of the three spreaders fixes the beam.  The other two spreaders widen the deck by some amount fore and abaft the middle spreader.

Heres an oblique view of the deck, this time from the left rear toward the bow.  The bow rises and the stern drops.  The deck turned out pretty symmetrical, something that sometimes takes some struggle to achieve.  But I cut both gunwales from the same piece of lumber that had been laying outside for about a year, giving it time to stabilize from its green state when I bought it, so perhaps I shouldnt be surprised that it turned out.

And I forgot to mention in the previous post on shaping the gunwales that I backed up the Gorilla glue with some stainless steel screws. My experience with Gorilla glue is that it isnt that strong given the kinds of surfaces that I glue together, that is, unless the two surfaces being glued are both smooth and in good contact, you dont get a very good bond.  Hence the screws.  I could have driven some dowels in there too, but screws seemed just a bit faster and I had a box of them and wanted to try and given that the pieces of the gunwales do not need to move relative to each other, rigid joinery is OK

When it comes to something like the gunwales, what matters is the shape and not the details of how the shape is achieved.  I used to think that these things needed to be done in a traditional manner like with doweled scarfs and no glue or screws, but then doweled scarfs were not particularly traditional anyway.  Much of what we think of traditional kayak building technology evolved in post contact times, that is, post contact with European traffic which introduced both new materials and tools.  The only truly traditional part of kayak building is to do the job the best you can with the tools and materials available to you.

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Eastern Arctic Kayak Construction more frame photos

Yesterday I set up the frame of the EA kayak and gave it a second coat of linseed oil.  With the keelson blocked in and the deck upright, it is easier to see what the boat will look like when finished.  Supposedly, the finished boat will not trim with the waterline parallel to the keelson.  The keelson will in fact sit lower in the front than in back. But we will see. 

Nose forward view accentuates the upsweep of the deck forward of the cockpit.

View from the back shows the downward slope of the deck at the steern.

And one more view from a slightly lower angle.

At this point, I find myself wondering what this boat will turn into and how it will behave.  This is of course one of the compelling things about building a boat of a kind one has never built before.  Invariably, there will be some disappointments and in time, pleasant surprises as well.  Still, if nothing else, the curved lines of a boat are delightful to look at.

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Reinforcing the construction form

During the fitting process for my sheer clamps, I noticed a little problem: the boats breasthook would turn slightly toward the direction where I was applying pressure to dry-fit the sheer. Id thought that simply having the chines in place would be sufficient to hold the breasthook onto the boats centerline, but it was not. I also noticed that the stem itself would flex a little bit, despite the chines being fastened into place.

I decided that it would be a good idea to re-build and reinforce that part of my construction form that supports the breasthook. Ive always felt that this area was the weakest point in my construction form anyway.

The first step was to completely remove this part of the form. This was relatively easy, as all I had to do was un-screw the base board from the forward support structure, and then just kick the whole assembly out from under the stem.

The next step was to remove the blocking assembly from the forward part of the base board. I kept the blocking assembly itself intact, as the height was correct. The plan was to simply replace it onto the new base board.

For the new base board, Id purchased a new 1" x 6" x 10 board. This was so it would be long enough to be fastened to two of the three support structures of the building form. I measured and marked the centerline on this board, the blocking assembly, and everything else. Though I admittedly started my whole boatbuilding quest with little-to-no experience with boats, Ive learned that the centerline is extremely important. It is the crucial reference point for the symmetry of the boat.

With this done, I attached the blocking assembly to the forward part of the base board. Since there are now so many parts of the boat frame fastened together, I could not reach to measure and mark the centerline on the inner support structures of the form. So, I measured and cut 1x6 spacers that would correctly center the base board & used these to align the base board with the construction form. Worked like a charm. The centerline of the blocking assembly was extremely close to the centerline on the breasthook. I guess my initial alignment was better than Id thought.

After screwing the base board to the construction forms support structures, I next added a brace from the front of the construction form to the base board. Again, this was all based on the measured centerline. The brace is made from two angle-cut 2x4s screwed onto blocking on both the construction form and the base board.

The whole thing seems pretty solid now. 

Ill just have to be certain to remove that forward bracing before all the planking goes on. Otherwise, I wont be able to remove the boat from the form.

The new base board & forward bracing.

Frame screwed to construction form with 3" wood screws & plywood washers.

After installing the new base board assembly, I screwed the forward frame onto the construction form itself. I probably shouldve done this a long time ago. Up until this point, all the frames had been firmly clamped into position. However, I found out the hard way that they would still move. As with the forward bracing, these screws must be removed before all the planking goes on.

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